A friend asked me about what he should see or visit, when he comes to visit Honduras for 10+ days, so I am writing up some possibilities for his visit. I think the best ideas are to pick the west, either the ruins or mountains, as they both need plenty of time to enjoy. The other options are colonial cities, which have nice churches. There are also many indigenous and interesting cultures present in the west, the jungle, and along the north coast. Luckily, Honduras has two coasts, so the south and north coast both offer opportunities to enjoy the sun sand and ocean. Still, my personal favorites are the west period, along with the bay islands. However, this combined trip would require at least two weeks. Either way, I will lay out some options and the info regarding the traveling through Honduras with a budget.
When one thinks of Honduras, one rarely thinks of the Mayans, yet by far the most impressive ancient artwork of the Americas is located in Copan Ruins. That little village has typical cowboy wearing men gathering in a quaint park every day, where you can buy plenty of tourist & native artwork, as well as enjoy random musical concerts and the occasional run in with a Sandoval. Besides the central park, there is a bird park up the hill towards the hot springs both a bit expensive but worth it. The hot springs are by far the best designed (Italian designer) and most pristine or natural, which I have seen. However, the ride there is one of the bumpiest, longest, and best done inside a bus. Unfortunately, the bus leaves early and hitchhiking is much easier. It can cost as little as 40 lps or $2 to take the trip, yet paying up for more room and or taking the bus is highly recommended. Otherwise, there is a canopy tour, which is nice, yet nothing like a real canopy tour, as you go from hillside to hillside and rarely spend much time in trees or old growth canopies. Still, it ends over the river, which leaves you thrilled to have experienced it, albeit not that thrilled throughout.
The ruins are best viewed in the morning or even late evening. I would recommend reading about the ruins and not relying on a guide. They largely annoy, know little besides rumors, and are entirely under qualified. Although this could be due to my having read up the night before, I would recommend them for the unmotivated, not so well read, or superficial traveler, as they can be entertaining and have some hidden secrets to show. The tunnels are not worth it, except, if you want to see the non painted birds’ heads being reconstructed in the dark without much ability to take pictures or make out the objects in the poor lighting. The best hidden secret is that most of the glyphs are in the museum, so it is a must to visit the museum; yet the restaurant is a must not due to poor food hygiene, which even locals don’t recommend. You will need at least 3 hours for the ruins, unless you just want to run through it. The best entrance is via the swamp or field of lilies with the crocodile statues. Then you swing around heading to the market with all the 17 rabbit statues later. There are plenty of statues at the end of the field, the farthest at the end facing the ball court are the most beautiful, in my opinion. Naturally, the ball court is a must see or play, as well as the view from the trees overlooking the marketplace. Look out for the little rodents, as you leave, and play with the macaws, not touching of course. Take note of all the tress and the impressive conservation done by Hondurans. The other ruins are interesting, yet lack the pomp of the first, as it only has a couple houses or compounds of nobles and the historical road. The best thing is that it is $3, or free if no guard is present, and is completely without tourists. Just drive or walk about 1 km further along the same road or walk towards the neighborhood of the elite and keep going until you find the ancient road.
The best thing about the ruins is that there are a couple of decent restaurants, hotels, and places to relax. There is a schwaben Restaurant right below Buena vista hotel, which is one of the best views, experiences, for a decent price. The little Schwaben has fresh brewed beer, good food both local and German/Schwaben. It is in the basement of the castle building housing the church of latter day saints. Otherwise, via via has decent food, albeit the restaurant across the road has cheaper and better food, while lacking much of the foreign taste and foreigners. Behind the market has the best pupusas. Just ask for the pupuseria. Locals know it well, their first recommendation. There is a cheese store down the hippie road, so if you have a craving for cheese and wine, that desire can be fulfilled. Also twisted tany’s has good international cuisine with an international price. Otherwise, I would recommend the wine bar for a drink and a view of the town.
Hotels are easy to come by and often cheap. The hostel runs for 80lps and most hotels will drop their prices to $10 for two in a room with two beds, albeit without ac and not the best beds. There are untold amount of hotels, so do not worry about reservations. Still, I can only recommend Buena vista, the hostel and asking around. If you want to reserve, find an upscale one, as you get better deals at the door, than online, except for the high end ones. I personally find the hotels on the hill overlooking the village nicer due to the view and being cooler, yet the ones closest to the park are expensive and have air condition. Not all of the hotels have AC, yet most have fans or don’t let you get too hot. One place you should visit in the house of noni, which has healthful drinks, teas, and tinctures, as well as knowledgeable locals. Basically, arrive in bus, expensive ac buses are nice, yet can cause car sickness due to the winding roads, while hitchhiking is fastest, cooler, a bit dangerous, and chicken buses or school buses are slow, hot and not the best. Then stop at the biggest burritos of Copan on your left after the bridge, before going to the hostel or Buena vista. If nothing is available walk down from Buena vista asking at the two hotels by along the way before taking a left towards the hostel and other hotels.
You need at least one day here for the ruins, while the second could be nice for the hot springs, shopping best prices and choice for gifts. I would recommend 3 days, yet everyone with time finds cool things to do.
What was your experience of Copan Ruins? Do you have any recommendations on hotels restaurants or hotels? Did anyone have a good guide…? What do you think of the ruins, your favorite statues?
No comments:
Post a Comment